Friday, April 5, 2013

Travelogue: Romancing the Valleys of Kashmir

Note: I had written this travellouge in October 2012 post our visit to the beautiful valley that month. This was posted on India Mike as at that time I had not discovered the joy of one own's blog!! I have made a few changes (for the better) and added a lot more photographs (more the merrier!!) of the picturesque Kashmir for you to enjoy!!

Romancing the valleys of Kashmir 
Disclaimer: This is my first attempt writing a travelogue so please bear with me!! (Nervous)


We had initially planned a 8 day trip to Rajasthan to celebrate our first marriage anniversary and eight years of love. But our friends and family advised against the same since it would be too hectic (with just my husband behind the wheels) and the desert weather still not favorable during first week of October.
So with not even a month at hand we were left with the overwhelming task of deciding on a place to go.
After two weeks of intense research on Trip Advisor and India Mike we were set to go to the valley of Kashmir, famed for its mesmerizing beauty and fondly called as the 'Paradise on Earth'

Trip Report

Day 1: 30th September

We departed from Delhi at 10:15 by Jet Airways. After a comfortable one hour we could see from the plane the cotton candy like clouds above vast mountains and snow clad peaks. We landed at the Srinagar airport around 11:30 and were welcomed by a bright sunny day!!

We had our taxi waiting to take us to our houseboat at Nigeen Lake(arranged by our houseboat for Rs500)
As you exit the airport you can find the TRC (Tourist Reception counter) at your right and another counter a little ahead on the left from where one can book the Gondola tickets.
We had planned to book our Gondola tickets from there but since the net connectivity was slow and booking is done online only we decided to book them later on the spot.
Traveller Tip: It is better to book online in advance through Rs 800/- per person for both Phase 1 and Phase 2.

My first impression of Srinagar City, that has stayed on still is that it has become highly commercialized and polluted. Yes the city has come a long way since the political and terrorist unrest in the past decades and though the city is highly militarized kudos to the people and the government for bringing normalcy to the city and for boosting tourism again!!

We halted for lunch in between at Mughal Darbar. It is located on the Residency Road and is one of the most famous restaurants to experience the Kashmiri cuisine. We ordered Tabak Maaz (didn’t know what we were getting into as the menu does not elaborate on the dishes), Yakhni and Kashmiri Naan.
Guessing that we were tourists fond of good food we were given Mutton Korma as a complimentary dish. For foodies like me and my husband, here's a little food review:
Tabak Maaz are deep fried lamb ribs, not very appealing for my taste. They were dripping with oil
. Yakhni is mutton cooked in sour curd gravy, it had a nice strong peculiar taste and the quantity was more than enough for the two of us. Kashmiri Naan is not your ordinary Naan. It is as huge as the size of a plate and is generously layered with dried fruits and fresh fruits.

After contented tummies we got back to our taxi to take us to our Houseboat.

Our houseboat (Fantasia Houseboat) was located at Nigeen lake. Our host, Mr. Rahim greeted us at the bank and took us to the HB via Shikara Ride. Our first Shikara ride ever...we were mesmerized. I loved the calm, quaint surroundings, especially the variety of birds on the lake. We reached our Houseboat and were greeted by a hot cup of Kashmiri Kahwa. It is a special spiced tea with a hint of Saffron which gives it a unique flavour.
We had pre-booked this houseboat for 3 days (paying in advance only a night's charge) and had planned to commence the journey/sightseeing on our own. But my husband got talking to Mr. Rahim who offered us a decent package for the whole 7 days. Our accommodation was already planned for in Gulmarg and Pahalgam so the package offered to us was inclusive of 4 nights stay (with breakfast and dinner) + Srinagar sightseeing + Sonmarg + taxi drop and pick to Gulmarg and Pahalgam. If you ask me I think price wise we could have done better, but my husband sadly HATES to bargain..
But in a way the arrangement was brilliant and we didn't have to stress or haggle through most of our journey! 

We relaxed for a while in our cozy room (with inbuilt bathroom and to our surprise bathtub!!) in the houseboat. The houseboat was done up very nicely, smelling faintly of deodar wood. The carvings on the outside as well as the interiors were very intricate. Ours was the smaller of the two houseboats. Each boat is accompanied by a dining area and a living rom. TVs were there in the living room only and not in the rooms.

After freshening up quickly we moved to our first day tour. We covered Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Garden, Chashme Shai and Pari Mahal.
The gardens were beautiful and being a Sunday we got a chance to see several Kashmiri families enjoying a picnic on this sunny day. They had actually bought small stoves along with them and were enjoying a cup of tea with small eateries prepared from home. It was quite a sight!
In case one is not going in the full bloom season (best month to see flowers is March-April) and is short on time you can visit Nishat Garden and give rest of the Mughal Gardens a skip. Chashme Shai is the garden with the famous spring water supposedly with medicinal value but other than that it just a similar garden. Pari Mahal just for the views!!

Father and son enjoying a game of Cricket at Shalimar Bagh

View from Pari Mahal
View from Pari Mahal

Pari Mahal

We came back to our HB in time for the India-Pakistan cricket match!! The idea of having a common living room dawned upon me then!! We met two good families also from Delhi/NCR and cheered together to make India win. We also came across an academician from Australia who was on one month holiday and was going to Leh Ladakh the next day.

Home made dinner was served at the dining table. At the houseboat a common meal is cooked for all the guests and in case one has any specific requirement, they need to be told to the manager beforehand.
Before going to the bed I enjoyed another Kahwa in the moonlight!!

More about Fantasia houseboat - I forgot to mention, other than the owner Mr. Rahim we also met Ms Anna who helps Mr. Rahim in managing and administering of the HB. She is basically from London and for the last 5 years has spent most of her time in Kashmir. She conducts organized treks in and around Kashmir. So while there you can enjoy trekking too!!

Day 2: 1st October

I got up early and watched as slowly the sun rose from behind the mountains (while my husband was fast asleep
) Oh so picturesque!!

Did a little exploring in the HB and found that they have a wonderful collection of German and English books (both fiction and nonfiction). I picked up 'The Great Gatsby' by F. Scott Fitzgerald to read it during our trip!!
By the time our caretaker got our morning cups of tea my husband was up and we had a quiet tea time basking in the nature all around us.
Word of Caution: Except for Kahwa we did not get our usual Chai flavour anywhere.
Almost everywhere we had tea it was those Lipton tea bags extra milky and sweet kind of tea....
Today was our Srinagar City tour day. We got ready and had a nice breakfast of Upma, Omelet and toast to get us started. (There is a unique flavour in almost all Kashmiri dishes and after having the omelet I figured out what it was. The Desi Zeera/Cumin. They had put some in Omelet too!!
Instead of taking the Shikara and going to the other side of the lake, we were taken to the backside of the houseboat where we discovered a little garden and leading up to a road behind. We met our driver Hilal who was to be our guide cum driver for the next few days. Today's itinerary was Jamia Masjid, Shah-e-Hamdan, local market, Shankracharya Temple, Manasbal Lake and Kheer Bhawani temple. We would also have liked to cover Hazratbal Mosque and Badaam Vaer but lacked time
All the above points are a must visit, here's a brief description/review:
Jamia Masjid - I found it more beautiful than the Delhi one and the architecture is beautiful. Very peaceful despite being in the centre of the city with old bazaars surrounding it.

Sha-e-Hamdan - one of my favourites. We weren't allowed inside but a peep from the window left us in awe. Beautiful mirror work with very intricate and colourful designs(predominantly green) and crystal chandeliers. We were told that this was one of the oldest Sufi shrines (originally built in 1395 and reconstructed in 1732).

Shankracharya Temple - It is sad that you are not allowed to take in Cameras cause the view is amazing. After a climb of almost 200 odd steps you can see the entire town. It is believed to be very sacred as Adi Shankracharya ji had visited this site. I had specially gone to fulfill my grandfather's wish as almost 25 years ago when he had visited Srinagar he was not able to go to this temple!!

We had our Lunch at Shamiyana Restaurant located at Boulevard Road. We also invited our driver to dine with us. We ordered Mutton Rogan Josh, Fish with mushroom and bamboo shoots. Both were very well prepared, the service was quick but the staff had a stern unfriendly look on their faces (??) Our driver had ordered Chicken Biryani which was quite spicy. He told us that Chicken Biryani is rarely prepared at their house and mainly they have Wazwan for dinner (which is like a multi course Kashmiri cuisine. How I wished to have that!! ) Our driver a young enthusiastic lad, very fond of cricket, got talking and told us that his family was in the business of shawls and stoles and they have counters at major stores of Bombay Selection in Delhi NCR and Mumbai.

After a pretty heavy meal we moved ahead to Manasbal Lake. We lazed around for a while in the backdrop of 'Pardesiyon se na ankhiyaan milana' being sung by some school girls who had come there for a picnic probably.
You can take Shikara rides here too but it was too sunny and we were feeling quite lethargic...It is a good place to spend some time if you are in a group. 

Our next stop was Kheer bhawani temple. This is one of the most important temples for the Hindus of Kashmir. There were two three signboards outside which said that people who have consumed non-veg should not go inside so we were quite reluctant. Then one pandit ji came outside and we shared with him our dilemma. He gave us water to drink and made us wash our hands and legs and then told that we may go inside. Around the temple area there are many Chinar trees where one can sit and meditate. I was looking for some information booth where I could find some books/brochures on the temple and history (for my grandfather) but couldn't find any...

Our journey back to houseboat was delayed by traffic jams caused by passing sheep and goats....Back at our boats we rested for a while, had dinner at 9pm (though not quite hungry) and slept.

Day 3: 2 October

Our morning ritual remained the same...and we got ready by 9:00 AM to leave for Sonmarg. The journey itself was beautiful with River Sindh flowing along the road. You can stop in between to capture these amazing landscapes. 

There are also many Dhabas along the way and one can stop to freshen up and buy some chips, chocolates etc.
Taxis can go only up to one point at the base of Sonmarg. From there either you have to hire a pony or taxi or go by walk to the Glacier( we were told that walking was not an option, but we could see several enthusiasts walking...though mostly these were locals or those who were used to trekking). Even the local taxi (if you hire) can take you only up to around 4 kms, post that one can walk or take a pony.
Sonmarg is too commercialized and is run literally by the pony wallas (The dons of the area!!) Our driver introduced us to a pony walla and said that he will be taking you ahead. For a second we thought "Oh great, everything is arranged and we don't have to bargain" But we were so wrong. He quoted Rs1750 each for the last point (Glacier) and we were baffled!! After much negotiation (with a little help from our driver) we decided on Rs600 per pony. I was not happy!! Hmph!!
Anyway we decided not to spoil our moods and enjoy the nature around us. We were shown to point one where the Amitabh Bachan's movie 'Satte pe Satte' was shot and one where a famous song from the movie 'Ram Teri Ganga maili' (not seen but supposedly was quite a bold movie directed by Raj Kapoor) was shot. We stopped at some kind of base (some chai and maggi stalls available here) from where one had to walk to the actual Glacier. As we started to walk we realized we were actually on the Glacier. It was so muddy and dirty that one cannot differentiate!! We could see ahead us, the magnificent snow clad peaks and kept moving in that direction in hope!! It's all glacier you are walking on (once you scrape out the mud you can see clean ice 
). Do remember to wear sturdy shoes and step carefully as one can easily slip. (Saying from experience ) We reached quite far from the base and we were the only ones who had gone so far but it was still a long way up...We sat on a rock amassing the beauty that surrounded us. Snow clad mountains on one side and lush greenery on the other side!! It was beautiful. We had few chips and biscuits and contemplated what to do...So Near Yet So Far....we decided to go back!! 


We were not hungry so skipped lunch and decided to go back. On the way back we spotted a restaurant called 'Discover Point'. It is located beautifully but the restaurant was not so good and the service was cold. We just had tea and maggi, strolled in the park for a bit and left.

Once we reached Sringar, Mr. Rahim our houseboat owner asked us to drop at his shop/factory outlet. We got to know then that he was also in the business of exporting Shawls, carpets etc. His brother basically manages the business and they export majorly to UK and Australia. We didn't intend to buy anything so just sat for a while discussing politics and cricket over a cup of Kahwa.

With another exciting and long day ahead we decided to call it a night!!

Day 4: 3rd October
In the morning two shikara wallas came to our HB, One selling flowers and flower seeds and the other selling saffron. We politely refused and asked them to come back on 6th. We got ready quickly and left at 8:30 for Gulmarg. We skipped our Breakfast and took Bananas and Apples from our caretaker instead. We found traffic at the Srinagar-Jammu signal but other than that it was a smooth ride. We had initially planned to have breakfast at Tanmarg but didn't stop. From Tanmarg, Gulmarg is a 12 km very curvaceous road. We had pre-booked a JKTDC hut/cottage in Gulmarg and it took us a while to find our hut. We had reached there by 10:30 and though the check in time was noon we were taken to our hut where we freshened up quickly, dumped our bags and left to the Gondola ticket counter.
There was a separate queue for ladies and after a short while I got us tickets for both Phase 1 and Phase 2. Two-three guides came up to us saying that they could show us all the sightseeing points up of them was quite persistent following us up to the cable chair itself!!
We were so thrilled to go up in the Cable chair...leaving the fine pine trees behind we were set to up to Gondola Ph 2 approx 13780 ft. It is a two stage ropeway. You have to get down at Ph1 and then go to Ph 2 by another cable chair. We decided to go to Ph2 first because the weather changes quickly up there which can affect your plans. 

And the weather did change and were in for a pleasant surprise!! As we reached Ph 2, we were welcomed by the season's first snowfall!! Woohoo!! Oh my God we were an excited ecstatic bunch of people there, jumping up and down with joy. The snowfall changed the whole landscape rapidly and we were not prepared for got so chilly and numb but we enjoyed every bit of it.

From Ph2 one can go up to the frozen lake - Affarwat but due to the weather change there were announcements being made to return back quickly. I simply cannot describe in words what we felt. Both I and my husband had seen snowfall for the first time This was truly the highlight of our trip!!
We then went to Ph 1 (it wasn't snowing here up till now)and having realized we had not eaten anything since morning quickly went to the restaurants there. There are about 3-4 dhabha like restaurants lined together. We just chose one and ordered Kashmiri rice and Kahwa. After lunch we still had time to explore Ph1. Ph1 closes ay 5pm and despite what one hears there is no time limit as such. The wind was extremely chilly and we did not have proper shawls/stoles/caps to cover our heads and ears. We looked around if we could find a vendor selling anything of the sorts but couldn't find any. We anyway decided to trek up to Khilanmarg (about 6-7km of uphill walk). Not many people were going up there probably due to the weather but we found one beautiful family (Mr. Neeraj, his wife and two kids) who joined us along, making the trek more fun. It is an easy trek and highly recommended (prefer to walk over ponies). We could see above the snow now in Ph2. It snowed here too in bits and pieces for short intervals. We trekked up to the waterfall and played our own Fear Factor game....we removed our shoes and socks and went and stood in the chilly water...Oh God brain freeze for a second!! This was Mr. Neeraj's crazy idea, and I was unwilling to go but he was so delightfully persistent that I gave in and it was so fun!! The walk back was fun and we chit chatted throughout. We reached back to Gulmarg at around 5. By this time I was having a slight headache because of the cold, b
ut we decided to walk around a bit, going to the temple through the Golf course. We sat in the temple for a while before walking back to our cottage.
The JKTDC hut was huge, cozy and clean and we had a pleasant night there. In the morning we were in such a rush that we hadn't seen the place properly. The living area was huge with a dining table, a sofa set, a T.V and a heater. One attached bathroom with hot water. There is one kitchen with the necessary utensils to cook a meal if one wants to. (All JKTDC properties provide only accommodation and no food) The bedroom was nice and cozy and spacious. After such a cold day we got the much needed rest in our wonderful beds which had electric blankets spread on them. While I rested my husband went out to explore and came back with packed dinner from a nearby hotel. He told me that the night sky was perfect with plenty of shining stars!!

We called it an early night after a 'beyond fantastic' day!!

Day 5: 4th October

We got up to a sunny morning and left the Glorious Gulmarg for our onward journey to Pahalgam at around 10:00. This was a long journey as Gulmarg-Srinagar-Pahalgam are in sort of a triangle and one has to touch Srinagar before going ahead to Pahalgam. We came across many apple orchards on our way and stopped at one to click pics and buy few apples.
We also found there strawberry plants but being off season could only spot one or two. 

We also made a stop at a shop to buy walnuts and kesar. They were also selling cricket bats there and I pressed my husband to buy one. He is so find of the game but his busy office and sheer laziness doesn't give him the time to play. I thought once we buy the bat maybe things will change. However our driver secretly told us that the bat was not worth the price being quoted and he would take us to a bat manufacturing shop to purchase one. So our next stop was a bat manufacturing shop. After much deliberation hubby dear bought a bat for Rs900. Yayy!! 
We next went to Awantipura ruins. If you look closely the carvings are beautiful but there is not too much to look at as it is mostly completely in ruins. 

As we moved towards Pahalgam, the river Lidder accompanied us…glistening in the sun.
We reached our Hotel in Pahalgam around 4pm. We had booked Hotel Brown Palace and were upgraded to Cottage room. The Hotel had an old charm to it with mostly wood construction, cosy rooms with a fireplace
and the sound of river Lidder which flows just outside. 

After a cup of tea we decided to explore the place by foot. The main market is a little away from the hotel at about 15 min of casual walk. We first went to Lidder view park, then strolled in the sreets hand-in-hand aimlessly. We then came across a small restaurant called Troutbeat. It is run by Hotel Pahalgam, one of the high end hotels in the area. Troutbeat specializes in serving Trout fish which is a rare river fish found only in few specific areas. Early morning the fish is caught from the local river Lidder in Pahalgam and so the variety of dishes/ quantity etc depends on that days catch. The ambience was very cool and funky with fish styled artifacts. We ordered one Trout and Chips and one Masala trout (comes with soft Parantha) which was more than sufficient for two. This is a must visit for Fish lovers.

With filled-happy tummies we started to walk again towards Deer Park. We were told that the Deer Park remained opened till 6pm but we reached around 5:45 and to our disappointment found it closed. We did spot few Deers from outside though. We then leisurely sat near the river enjoying the sights and sounds of the place...breathing all of it in. Purity. Serenity. Sublimity.

We reached our Hotel and rested for a while. They asked us what we would like to have for dinner and we had the option of having it in our rooms beside the fireplace. Their preparations were good and serving was also of good quantity.
The nights get cold in Pahalgam and we asked for an extra blanket which we were given promptly. 

End to Day 5!!

Day 6: 5th October

Today's itinerary was Kashmir Valley, Dabiyaan n Baisaraan by pony and then later Chandanwaari, Betaab Valley n Aru Valley by cab.
The pony was arranged by Mr. Ibrahim Raina(owner of Hotel Brown Palace) at Rs 500 per pony. So, after a nice breakfast in the garden we moved towards our sightseeing. Our pony wallah was quite a character!! He kept us entertained throughout, with many stories of the village and its life.
Baisaraan also called the Mini Switzerland was amazing! With the green meadow and majestic mountains surrounding it. We also did Zorbing there, which was quite thrilling!!

Back to base, our pony wallah left us at the taxi stand. We first had coffee and some pastry in Cafe Log Inn (another restaurant run by the Hotel Pahalgam) before taking the taxi. The taxi rates are fixed and we took a Maruti Omni for the three points. We first went to Chandanwaari. It is basically the point from where Amarnath Yatra starts and one can see the first steps to Amarnath. Rest we didn't see anything there as the road was under construction and the area was closed.
Next on list was Betaab Valley which got its name from Sunny Paji's movie - Betaab. We spent almost an hour here (our driver actually came inside to call us) - lying down, climbing trees n sitting with our feet in the water.

Our last stop was Aru Valley, which was in the opposite direction and quite an uphill road. The taxi leaves you at the base of Aru village; from there one can take a pony or walk. We decided to walk which turned out to be fun!! Once you reach the top you feel as if you are in another world, another time!! So far away from everything....
We reached back around 6pm....and then walked to our Hotel. Once again we had a nice dinner in our rooms while watching the West Indies-Australia cricket match!!

Day 7: 6th October

After breakfast, we checked out from our Hotel to go back to Srinagar. On the way, we wanted to go to the 'Mattan temple'. Our driver asked two three people including the CRPF men about the 'Sun temple' but they were not sure. We found one temple which said 'Mattan temple'. There was also a Gurudwara next to it. As you enter the temple, the first thing you notice is the massive clear ponds with numerous fishes in it. The temple is dedicated to the Sun God. It was clean and pristine, and we spent a little time there. Once again we sought to find some books on the temple but couldn't find any!!
We reached Srinagar around 1pm and decided to have lunch at Ahdoos. We decided to give one last treat to our taste buds...our last Kashmiri meal. We ordered Goshtaba, a huge meat ball in curd based gravy. We enjoyed the food, ambiance and service.

We reached our houseboat around 3pm and to our delight had been upgraded to the suite room.
The room was enormous as compared to our earlier room (but my husband preferred the smaller room, it was more cosy). We rested for a while, had tea and left for a relaxing Shikara ride. The beautiful sunset, the crisp wind against our faces, the rhythm of the paddle....Some experiences as they say are Priceless!! 

When we reached our houseboat we had in store another pleasant surprise. Mr. Rahim and Anna had arranged for a small cake to celebrate our anniversary. We asked them to join us in our celebration and also had beer (on the house). This gesture of theirs truly won our hearts!!
Called it a night after an early dinner.

Day 8 - Goodbye Srinagar
We got up at 4:30 am, got ready and left on our Shikara to the floating vegetable market. It was so cold but thankfully the shikara had a nice clean blanket at hand. I was so sleepy and cold and was almost dozing off when our Shikara wallah got us Kahwa and Kashmiri bread out of nowhere. The Kashmiri Bread was round and fluffy, crunchy and sweet-salty in taste. The floating vegetable market was a unique experience. We could see almost all kinds of vegetables being sold there - from lotus stem, cauliflower, spinach to what not!! There were also few vendors selling Saffron, tea, Kashmiri Masalas, flowers etc.
On our way back to the houseboat I again dozed off for a while.

We were reaching the most difficult part of our journey - The goodbye. We got ready, had our breakfast and bid farewell to our wonderful hosts.
Our flight was at 2:00 pm and we left our houseboat at about 11:30 as the airport checks take almost an hour to complete. You have to go through 3 checks and at the last check your handbag is checked thoroughly and they examine all the handbags' contents.
We still had time to have some chips while we waited for our flight to be announced. On the first floor of the airport you have a few eating options and a bookshop.

Carrying with us the fond memories of Kashmir we boarded our flight back to Delhi, sure of the fact that we were going to visit the region again to discover its adventurous side!!


Writing this TR has rekindled so many happy memories. With improving situation of the land I hope that the tourism keeps flourishing. Kashmir has lots to offer to all kinds of people. It has it famous religious sites, the beautiful landscapes, trekking and excursions for the adventure enthusiasts and provides a relaxing environment for those who just want to get away from their maddening city lives. There are still few problems that the government and the tourist industry need to take care of like preserving its natural ecology, discouraging touts and excess commercialization. And I think we travelers can help a great deal in this regards....Keep Traveling, Keep Exploring and Keep Sharing!! 


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  1. Wow, Now this is what I call beauty... Loved your pictures,

    Himanshu Nagpal | Being Traveler

  2. Beautiful place. This is in my wishlist.

    1. Cross it out soon from your wish list!! It is enchanting :) :)

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  4. Hi, thanks a lot fr d encouragement!! :)

  5. one word, splendiferous !
    loved the detailing here (Kashmiri Naan !), pictures are really beautiful !
    I have heard a lot about the hospitality of the people there too .. about the place, its heaven and the clicks justify the metaphor completely
    you using a DSLR or Point n Shoot ? share the details of the gear

    So again travel and write more !

    1. Thanks a lot!! I love to travel and click, just fight to find more time to do all that!! I use Point n Shoot - Cannon SX30's got super zoom...Can't thank my Uncle enough for gifting it to me!! :) :)

  6. Thanks a lot for visiting my blog :) :) ...Reading your post I think i need to go again :( as I have missed lot of places in Srinagar like Pari mahal ,Jama mashid and Sha-a hamdan....lovely compilation with great captures....its truly a heaven on earth ....i have planned to visit again during winter in feb to enjoy Gandola ride in gulmarg with snow clad mountains and once during june-july to see the tulips :) :)

    1. There is surely a lot to see and enjoy in Kashmir...the landscape is beautiful! I wish to go there again and do some trekking this time!

  7. am reading this now! Totally heads over heels in lubv with place yea

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  25. I was so mesmerized on my first visit in April 2013 that I revisited kashmir in 2014 and again planned to go there in April 2016. I'm afraid I will spend my years saving in kadhmir...!!! I find April to be the best season as its a beautiful transition between snow and spring so that u may have ample of thick snow in hills as well as full bloom. Tulip garden is a bonus.

  26. Hi Aditi,

    Your travelogue was great fun....Thank you so much...I'm looking forward to my Kashmir trip in the coming week. :-)

  27. wow! great location Visit the kashmir tours packages and get blessed by Mata Vaishnodevi with Ajinkya tours…

  28. Very nicely written post...Thanks for sharing kashmir tours packages

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  30. Really a wonderful post. Thanks for posting such an informative & useful post with us. keep posting & inspire us like this post.
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